Boston
Revisited
Boston is probably the United States most historic
city, although of course other east coast metropolises
will dispute this. One thing for sure, it is the
closest US gateway from the UK, 30 minutes less flying
time than New York. Also beyond dispute is its airport
accessibility. Logan International is on an island in
Massachusetts Bay, less than two miles from the city
center with excellent public transport connections via
the subway, by bus or taxi.
If you have been to
Boston before it has changed dramatically in recent
years with the demise of the elevated roadway that
used to ring the central part of the city (it is now
much underground) opening up a wholesale redevelopment
of the downtown area. For those new to the "Cradle of
Liberty" a week is not long enough to enjoy one of the
most fascinating cities in the whole of the United
States. Stay at one of the many fine hotels that ring
Boston Common, a sort of Hyde Park in miniature right
in the center of the city, and on your first day treat
yourself to an Old Town Trolley Tour which gives a
great perspective of the city, taking in Harvard (in
the suburb of Cambridge across the Charles River),
Charlestown with the Bunker Hill Monument and the USS
Constitution, and the waterfront area including the
Faneuil Hall Marketplace. $29 for one day or $10 for
two days. Get on and get off at any one of 16 stops,
hear what the driver has to say, and seek out his
knowledge and advice.
Allow time in your
schedule to visit the Kennedy Library and Museum
(easily accessible via the subway &endash; JFK was a
native of Boston) and Plymouth, 45 miles to the south
(an easy drive or by Gray Line coach) where there is
an excellent reconstruction of the original settlement
of 1627. The "natives" of the Plimoth Plantation speak
the original west country English. You won't catch
them out. Visitors try to do so daily. Also on view is
Mayflower II. It is a long way removed from a modern
cruise ship and not the most attractive way of
crossing the stormy Atlantic.
Boston was founded in
1630 and Harvard soon after. In 1773 it was the site
of the Boston Tea Party, colonists dumping tea rather
than paying British tax, quickly followed by the War
of Independence. Among the many inventions and
developments pioneered at Harvard perhaps Scotsman
Alexander Graham Bell's telephone is the greatest. On
the sporting front the Boston Marathon was the world's
first great city Marathon and dates from 1897. The
Boston Red Sox won their fifth "World Series" title in
1918. They were not to win again until 2004! Their
home stadium Fenway Park (left) is well worth a visit
particularly on big match day. Sit down in your
ancient (it dates from the 1920s) seat and take some
produce from a hot dog vendor. We in the UK are a long
way behind.
An alternative to the
trolley tour (but you can do both) is a visit to the
Skywalk Observatory at the top of the Prudential
Center, the fine views giving an amazing perspective
of one corner of Massachusetts. On the 52nd floor, one
down, is the Top of the Hub restaurant, a wonderful
view and good food at prices that makes the whole of
the UK look very expensive. In fact eating is another
virtue of Boston, fine food at attractive prices. The
Prudential Center also houses a massive shopping mall,
air conditioned and, particularly on the clothing
front, offering real bargains with a quality of
service unsurpassed. An alternative shopping area is
the Quincy Market &endash; Faneuil Hall waterfront
area, which is also the center of a whole historic
area served by what is known as the Freedom Trail, a
90 minute walking tour defined by a red brick line
taking in the stories of the American Revolution, its
patriots and events. Boston is flat for the most part
and an audio tour is part of the GoBoston package (see
below). Along the trail is a moving memorial to the
Holocaust and the six million who died.
What else to do?
Impossible to list in 1,000 words. If you have the
kids with you there is the Children's Museum, the
aquarium and the zoo. For history buffs the National
Heritage Museum is a must, as is the Salem Witch
Museum. The Museum of Fine Art is one of the world's
greatest and MIT (Massachusetts Institute of
Technology) has its own museum.
As with an increasing
number of American cities Boston has on offer the
"City Pass" priced at $39 which represents a 50%
reduction and the bypass of queues at six major
attractions and shops plus restaurant reductions. A
more expensive, but much more comprehensive package is
the "GO Boston" card which covers a huge variety of
places to visit in and around the Boston area, whale
watching, various ferries and includes a fine and
comprehensive guidebook. One day is $45 and for a week
the cost is $135. A single day unlimited
transportation on all the MBTA local bus, subway and
inner harbor ferry services costs $7.50. Visitors will
find that things are in the main cheaper than New
York. The local taxes are less.
For the summer of 2006
there are five daily services from Heathrow and both
Icelandair and Aer Lingus offer cheaper stopovers via
their hub bases whilst American Airlines also has a
daily service out of Manchester. Brand new, and due to
open towards the autumn, the Intercontinental Boston
is a $330m waterfront hotel with 421 rooms and
featuring 130 luxury condos on the upper floors. It is
about ten minutes from Logan International
Airport.
Here are a few useful links:
http://www.bostonusa.com
http://www.mbta.com
http://www.gobostoncard.com
http://www.citypass.com
http://www.oldtowntrolley.com
M. Ginsberg, ABTN